If you missed my previous journey, check out [Tokyo Part 1] here
The next day was dedicated to researching Ikebukuro.
Ikebukuro is widely recognized as one of Tokyo’s three major subcenters, standing alongside Shinjuku and Shibuya. As a massive transportation hub, it serves as a melting pot where diverse demographics constantly mingle. The area is dense with subculture-related stores, interactive exhibitions, and sprawling shopping malls. In particular, the landmark complex known as Sunshine City is a multifaceted cultural facility that integrates an aquarium, a high-altitude observatory, and a wide array of retail shops. I made this my primary focus for today’s research.
Before beginning my full-scale exploration, I stopped at Nihonbashi Kaisen Don Tsujihan (Kagurazaka branch), a restaurant specializing in Kaisen Don. This Japanese-style seafood bowl is a culinary staple, essentially featuring fresh sashimi layered over steaming rice. It was incredibly popular; because the restaurant is intimate in size, I found myself waiting in line for nearly 3 hours. Despite the long wait, the meal was so exceptionally delicious that I felt it was entirely justified. A unique highlight is the option to add rich sea bream broth to your bowl toward the end. The broth elevated the flavors to a new level—my advice for future visitors would be to intentionally save a portion of your rice and sashimi specifically to enjoy with that exquisite broth.
My first impression upon arriving in Ikebukuro was the sheer volume of people. Even though it was a weekday, the crowds were immense, highlighting the district’s constant energy.
I mentioned earlier that Ikebukuro is a hub for various subculture genres. One of the most immediate observations was the enormous number of Japanese-style Gacha-type vending machines. These machines, where you insert 300 to 500 yen for a random prize, are ubiquitous throughout Japan, but Ikebukuro hosts the “Gashapon Ikebukuro Main Store,” an astonishingly large facility dedicated entirely to these collectibles.
The area is also remarkably trendy; for instance, I was eager to visit a micro-pig cafe, which is currently trending on social media. Despite the premium price—1,870 yen for just 24 minutes—the venue was fully booked, and the wait time stretched to several hours. I unfortunately had to turn back, having already exhausted my waiting quota at breakfast.
I also felt the depth of the local subculture scene. While Gundam is arguably the most famous mecha genre in Japan, the Macross series is a historic IP with a legacy just as enduring. Macross is distinguished by its focus on “Diva” idols, music, and the iconic transformation of fighter jets into robots. Since a special Macross exhibition was being held, I stopped by to soak in the atmosphere.
Ikebukuro is often regarded as the center of female-oriented subculture, which creates a distinct contrast to the atmosphere found in Akihabara. Since my research wasn’t strictly limited to subculture, I moved on to my next destination.
Next, I visited the aquarium inside Sunshine City. While not massive in total footprint, the curation was superb. The most famous feature is the outdoor penguin exhibit, which is brilliantly designed to allow visitors to view the penguins swimming from below. The entire outdoor area was so thoughtfully decorated that it remained a wonderful experience even in the brisk, cold weather.
The penguin exhibit at the Central Park Zoo in New York is similarly iconic. It seems that viewing aquatic life in the heart of a concrete metropolis is a powerful draw for urban residents. In the first episode of the popular anime Mawaru Penguindrum, there is a memorable scene set at this very aquarium. Since visiting urban aquariums is a trope frequently seen in Japanese media, I am strongly considering using this location as a background in my novel to capture that specific mood.
There were many families and couples enjoying the facilities. Since I plan to explore the interpersonal tension between a man and a woman in the Tokyo arc of my novel, I needed to scout authentic date spots, and this location felt like a perfect, natural fit.
Beyond the exhibits, there is a large jellyfish hall and a fascinating section detailing the various fish that are staples of the Japanese diet. I was particularly struck by a live Largehead Hairtail. Since this fish is notoriously sensitive to stress and typically dies immediately upon leaving the water, it was a rare and fascinating sight to see one swimming in a tank.
I also took a quick look at the Crayon Shin-chan goods store and the Pokémon Cafe. Nearby is the famous Pokémon Center Mega Tokyo; while I couldn’t brave the massive queue to enter, my guide—a Tokyo local—noted that this is one of the most significant and largest branches in the country.
In the afternoon, I stopped by a cafe called Momobukuro to try a parfait. It was a sentimental space decorated with charming, small rodent figurines. Of all the neighborhoods I have traversed, Ikebukuro felt like the place with the most “emotional” and cute aesthetics. Given that my characters are in their late teens and early twenties, I feel that capturing the Ikebukuro experience is non-negotiable for the Tokyo chapter of Part 2.
*This field research is part of a pre-production phase for this website’s multimedia project. All analyzed locations are selected based on their socioeconomic relevance to the target market.